Music and Customer Behaviour

Reference: North A, Shilcock A & Hargreaves D (2003) The Effect of Musical Style on Restaurant Customers' Spending Environment and Behavior 2003; 35: 712-718

Abstract: Classical music, pop music, and no music were played in a British restaurant over the course of 18 evenings. The mean spend per head for each table was calculated for starters, main courses, desserts, coffee, bar drinks, wine, overall drink bill, overall food bill, and total spend. Total time spent in the restaurant was also measured. Analysis revealed that there was an overall significant difference between the conditions with classical music leading to higher spending than both no music and pop music. Univariate analyses indicated that there were differences between the conditions on mean spend per head on starters, coffee, total spend on food, and overall spend. These findings were consistent with the limited previous research, which indicated that the playing of background classical music led to (a) people reporting that they were prepared to spend more and (b) higher actual spending. The results indicate that restaurant managers can use classical music to increase customer spending, and the results are discussed in terms of three possible explanations for this.

My Thoughts: This is one of the most interesting articles that I have read in a long time. It looked at the effect on behaviour of playing either classical music, pop music or no music at all over a few nights of trade in which 393 customers were served. The implications of this for businesses is interesting to consider and one of the variables considered in the study was the tempo of the music. To reduce the impact of tempo tracks were taken that had similar tempo - either in classical or pop music. The study used 2 CDs, one with classical music and the other with pop and these were played on alternate nights with additional nights with no music at all (as per the table below).



The result of the study was that classical music gave rise to the greatest spend, however the restaurant chose was an up-market venue with a matching clientele. While it is not certain that this clientele would prefer classical to pop I think it is possibly likely that classical would be preferred in a restaurant. Interestingly however the areas of the meal where the spending increased were on starters and on coffee at the end and I think that is significant - people who are relaxed and enjoying the atmosphere of a place are more likely to stay longer and spend more, which is in essence the conclusion of the study.

Of course I am wary of the result given the choice that were made for the pop music CD. Perhaps it is just my taste but any restaurant playing a CD that included Britney Spears’s “Crazy”, Culture Club’s “Karma Chameleon” and Ricky Martin’s “Living La Vida Loca” would be lucky to have me there long enough to finish perusing the menu - no matter how tempting their cuisine might be!

The lesson here for cafes must surely be to do whatever it takes to keep people comfortable and happy so that they stick around. Redundant advice for most the cafe owners I know as they are well aware of this fact already. Perhaps more useful is a secondary rule - if you want people to stay longer, play music that is inoffensive at least and pleasant to the ear of the greatest number of people - classical music does fit that, but much jazz is equally accessible to cafe visitors.

Fair trade: A cup at a time?

Reference: Levi, M., and A. Linton. 2003. Fair trade: A cup at a time? Politics and Society 31 (3): 407–32.


Abstract: Fair Trade coffee campaigns have improved the lives of small-scale coffee farmers and their families by raising wages, creating direct trade links to farming cooperatives, and providing access to affordable credit and technological assistance. Consumer demand for Fair Trade certified coffee is at an all-time high, yet cooperatives that produce it are only able to sell about half of their crops at the established fair trade price. This article explores the reasons behind this gap between supply and demand and suggests ways to close it. The authors also offer some perspective on the limits of ethical consumption campaigns such as Fair Trade coffee.


My Thoughts: This paper looks at Fair Trade from the perspective of exploring how one aspect can be improved but it is not generally a critique of the Fair Trade system. It does leave unanswered some of the important criticisms of Fair Trade – such as whether or not the system can be improved to drive an improvement in quality.

Like most agricultural products coffee can be traded as a commodity – usually produced on vast plantations. These plantations trade with larger corporations and are often highly mechanised and operate to minimise costs. Their coffee is sold cheaply forcing the market price for all coffee down. However the quality of coffee that can be produced in this way is not very high. Such estates are usually at a lower altitude and the density of the bean is correspondingly lessened.

“There appears to be a high correlation between the kinds of beans specialty coffee companies prefer and small-scale production. Whereas large coffee retailers want a standardized, low-cost product, the specialist retailers seek very high-quality beans with distinctive tastes. Small-scale producers can provide this. Their production tends to be at higher altitudes, where it is not so easy to create large mechanized farms. The coffee is also more likely to be shade grown and the harvesting and processing of the coffee cherries achieved with more care.”

Essentially the situation for small growers is difficult. They have little political or financial power and trade through intermediaries (known in Central America as ‘Coyotes’). They must sell in a market that treats their product as a commodity, even though that individually their own product may be of far better quality than the mass-produced beans. They will receive the commodity price for their coffee – often an amount that is nowhere near enough to feed, clothe and educate their family. Often their coffee will go on to be sold at a much higher-than-commodity price due to its quality, but they never see this added premium.

Fair Trade was a consumer-driven initiative to ensure that producers of many primary products receive a fair payment for their produce. In the context of coffee this meant establishing a benchmark price that would be paid regardless of fluctuations in the commodity market. The paper touches on the issue of specialty coffee and identifies that “the United States, the largest coffee-consuming nation in the world, specialty coffee accounts for about 40 percent of by-the-cup sales and 17 percent of overall coffee sales”.

Fair Trade is one aspect of this market. The paper does not really follow through on the issue of specialty coffee and how the relationship aspects of specialty coffee ensure not only a fair price but also higher quality. The paper does comment on the uncertainty that the specialty coffee industry has about Fair Trade:

“The specialty coffee industry has come to see Fair Trade as a potential growth area—one in which “the retail coffee industry treads a fine line between addressing concerns and provoking them. Mostly as a result of nongovernmental organizations’ (NGOs) efforts, the industry has moved to differentiate itself on the basis of “total quality” coffee—a definition that for many companies incorporates social responsibility and environmental sustainability as well as excellence in the cup. Although it remains a very controversial topic among member companies, the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) has officially endorsed Fair Trade certification.”

The paper outlines the much shorter pathway for the trade in coffee under Fair Trade arrangements with many of the ‘middle’ dealing points removed from between the producer and the consumer.

The paper describes some research that examined the quality of Fair Trade coffee and found that generally it was of a superior quality to commodity coffee, but not always superior to other estate grown coffees.

The conclusion considers the future of Fair Trade and identifies the divergence in the consumer market as the real driver of this future – when people learn about coffee and about what contributes to quality, they are more likely to select coffee that is less a commodity and more a quality product.

Overall an interesting paper but one that left me unsatisfied - perhaps I had expected more of a critique of the Fair Trade program.

Papers for Review

Well the poll closed yesterday and I have started work on reviewing the three papers that led the list:

1. Fair Trade: A Cup at a Time?


2. Nothing like a Nice Cup of Coffee


3. The Effect of Musical Style on Restaurant Customers' Spending
   

I may, if I have time also review a 4th choice: "With Friends Like These: The Corporate Response to Fair Trade Coffee".

I also visited Barker and Hale today, and took the camera along. This has been a favourite specialty shop of mine and they have been very good at keeping up to date on ethical chocolate issues. I'll be posting a profile with lots of photos.

More a little later on the papers. . .

Grind and Tamp - in which I demonstrate with a Pullman Tamper

Please, don't try this at home - I did.

Mare's Milk

Kamran of Fiori Coffee is currently in Europe and is sending the occasional pic back - including this one:

Now I know the idea of milk from a horse sets the Aussie mind aback, but lets face it, mare's milk fueled the conquest of Europe by Genghis Khan and his Mongol Hordes so it is powerful stuff.

It has been the subject of research over the years including a paper that did a comparison between nutritional values in cow's and human milk - as outlined in the abstract below:

"Milk composition of mammallian species varies widely with reference to genetic, physiological and nutritional factors and environmental conditions. In this survey, the composition of mare's milk is reviewed and compared to human and cow's milk, considering principal protein fractions and fatty acid content. Protein content in mare's milk is higher than in human milk and lower than in cow's milk; casein concentration in mare's milk is intermediate between the other two milks. Fat content is lower in mare's milk compared to human and cow's milk. Distribution of di- and tri-glycerides in mare's and women’ milk is similar. The proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids in mare's and human milk is remarkably higher than in cow's milk. Mare's milk shows some structural and functional peculiarities that make it more suitable for human nourishment than cow's milk."

In addition to being nutritious the higher level of sugar in Mare's milk makes it very suitable for fermenting - and it is in fact the fermented mare's milk (or 'Kumis') that is so loved on the Steppes. Nearly 90% of the people living in Inner Mongolia are lactose intolerant. Mare's Milk has much more lactose than cow's milk - around 40% more but lactose, like all sugar is converted during fermentation to ethanol and carbon dioxide (and also, in this case, lactic acid). This means that a lactose intolerant person can drink the result. This is important in an area like Mongolia where the sources of nutrition are limited.

I'm not sure how it would work in a latte, but the Mongolians still seem to love it as much as their ancestors did - or perhaps it was the lack of any other alcoholic beverage that drove the Mongols to invade Europe. . .

If you want to read more, here is the citation: MALACARNE M., MARTUZZI F., SUMMER A., MARIANI P. (2002). Protein and fat composition of mare’s milk: some nutritional remarks with reference to human and cow’s milk. Int. Dairy J., 12: 869-877.

Nude Coffee

Playing with the naked portafilter and the camera earlier today:

Anzac Day

Last year I wrote about my Grandfather's version of the Gunfire Breakfast.

I was tempted to remember him and all the other diggers who have served, and are serving their country and particularly those who have given heir lives while doing so, by partaking of a tot of rum in my coffee this morning. However, I think I'll save that for this evening.

During the day I came across this list of items that made up the daily ration of the front-line troops. I am not sure of its origin or accuracy:

• 20 ounces of bread or 16 ounces of flour or 4 ounces of oatmeal
  
• 1/10 gill lime if vegetables not issued
  
• ½ gill of rum or 1 pint of porter
  
• 3 ounces of cheese
  
• maximum of 20 ounces of tobacco
  
• 5/8 ounces of tea
  
• 1/3 chocolate - optional
  
• 4 ounces of jam or 4 ounces of dried fruit
  
• ½ ounce of salt
  
• 1/36 ounce of pepper
  
• 1/20 ounce of mustard
  
• 4 ounces of butter/margarine
  
• 8 ounces of fresh vegetables or
  
• 2 ounces of dried vegetables
  

The lack of coffee notwithstanding (and I am sure that meat should be in the list somewhere!) the rations may have a reasonable calorific value but that is about as much as could be said for them.

Lest We Forget.

The Paper Reviews

Tomorrow the poll on paper reviews closes - it is a close run (one of the papers on Fair Trade is leading), but I think my inclination at present is actually to review the leading three papers since there seems to be a reasonable level of interest in each.

I have a few errands and favours to complete this weekend - as well as an assignment to finish but I think it'll be possible to do at least two by the end of the long weekend.

I've also just received 'Uncommon Grounds' by Mark Prendergast via Amazon.com and I'm looking forward to finding out what he discovered.

I'll try and share some of his insights over the next few weeks as well.

Friday Night Music

Although tonight should probably be titles 'Great Moment in History'.

I was only a few days old when the events in this clip took place but have marveled at those events most of my life.




And a little of the title track from the movie. . .

Currently Reading About Coffee

This is a selection of the papers I have been reading on coffee or related subjects - geeky? yes, but instructive. I though I might review one here at Cafe Grendel but could not decide which one - so you can choose, the poll on the right will run until Friday then I'll have to get to work!

Just match the number and the title to the poll.

1. Colonialism and coffee plantations: Decline of environment and tribals in Madras Presidency during the nineteenth century


2. Determination of Carbon Monoxide Levels in Coffee Shops in Ankara


3. Environmental Tobacco Smoke and Ventilation in 20 Social Venues in Perth, Western Australia


4. Fair Trade: A Cup at a Time?


5. Occurrence of Ochratoxigenic Fungi and Ochratoxin A in Green Coffee from Different Origins


6. Nothing like a Nice Cup of Coffee


7. Studying Cultural Change: Were the Changes in Alcohol and Coffee Consumption in the Nineteenth Century a Case of Beverage Substitution?


8. With Friends Like These: The Corporate Response to Fair Trade Coffee


9. The Effect of Musical Style on Restaurant Customers' Spending


10. The frequency of caffeine withdrawal in a population-based survey and in a controlled, blinded pilot experiment
    

Friday Night Music - Sort of. . .

A little Swedish ditty then the turkeys take over. . .

Coretto Cocktail

A coretto (usually drunk after lunch or dinner) is equal parts espresso and grappa - although any spirit can be used.

This afternoon for a change I made a coretto using not just a spirit, but with liqueurs as well - a coretto cocktail.

One part espresso, 1/4 shot of Frangelico, 1/4 shot of Kahlua, 1/4 shot of Grappa and 1/4 shot of brandy.

Current Mood:

Piccolo LB

The Piccolo Long Black begins with about half the hot water you would use when making a long black - I use about 60ml. Onto this you then pour the traditional doppio espresso. This delivers what can be described as a more intense long black (or a less intense espresso if you prefer!)

I'm finding the Piccolo Long Black to be a very pleasant midday coffee.

3-way bean day

Yirgacheff, a classic Ethiopian bean, was an early favourite of mine when I started this ongoing process of learning to appreciate quality coffee.

I've continued to love it (and most other Ethiopian coffees). I have a small quantity as an Easter coffee and today decided to try making it three different ways and compare the results.

1. Espresso was first method of preparation. Usually with Yirgacheff I find lots of delicate floral tones - as espresso these are there in the nose but the cup is much more concentrated and earthy. Big fruit and a pleasant acidity - definitely a coffee I can enjoy again as a single origin.


2. A Cafetiera or Moka pot was the next method, and while this might 'technically' be a form of espresso I never find that coffee made this way tastes much like what comes out of my espresso machine and I find it a good way to judge whether the beans will hold up against some hotter treatment.Less acid and a little more bitterness but still a wonderful earthiness and velvet mouthfeel.


3. Plunger - Gotta love your plunger, when all else fails (including the power) you can always hand-grind some beans and make plunger coffee. It is the mainstay of coffee production in our office and delivers where flavour is concerned. Great fruit notes this way and all of the delicate florals as well, the earthiness was present and the mouthfeel quite buttery - a wonderful facet of Yirg when you can find it.

I still have a Presso, an Aeropress and a pour-over filter to try, but it is now early afternoon and I have early morning bunny duties so I think the rest of the experimentation will have to wait. I really must try side by side method comparisons more often!

Good Friday Night Music

I thought I would choose a traditional piece for tonight and in keeping with the liturgical season.

Mozart was dying when when friends performed part of his unfinished Lacrimosa from the Requiem he had been working on when he fell ill. Mozart is said to have been moved to tears during the performance.



Lacrimosa dies illa
Qua resurget ex favilla
Judicandus homo reus.
Huic ergo parce, Deus:
Pie Jesu Domine,
Dona eis requiem. Amen.

Bosque Lya

Our coffee this week at work is Bosque Lya. This El Salvador estate produced the 2004 Cup-of-Excellence winner - a bourbon that rated over 90. Grown in Santa Ana and processed at the Cuzcachapa cooperative, the 2008 crop of this coffee has been superb through the plunger and has been subtly changing through the week.

Tasting those changes has been very enjoyable and a talking point among colleagues.

Yesterday while grinding I had a distinct 'Pizza' aroma wafting from the grinder - this was not present in the cup but it was complex and spicy - much more so than the day before.

The coffee is grown at 1500 metres on the Apaneca-Ilamatepec range by the Molina family. The estate was named for Lya Molina by her father and literally means Lya's Forest.

I think this has been my favourite coffee of the 2008 season and it shines in the plunger.

Sweet Maria's have a great profile on the estate and the family following the 2004 CoE win.

The local source for this bean is Fiori Coffee.

"Didn't have a treat!"

When you are five and misbehave it sometimes means you miss out on a treat. Oh the unjustness of it all - but what can you do?

Well Junior Grendel Number Two seems to have figured out at least one strategy - You have your older brother draft a note of protest and advocate on his behalf by delivering it to the proper authority.

Exhibit A:



Apart from the missing 'a' it is a creditable effort - and ultimately was an amusing enough gambit to convince Mrs Grendel to relent.

I reckon a lot of adults wish their protests were as effective!

The Big Chocolatty Easter Post

It is a sad day for chocolate lovers when the purchase of your favourite treat does not come guilt free.

While I have mentioned ethical chocolate before it has always been within an environment where such chocolate is available for purchase. This year however the two largest supermarkets - Coles and Woolworths don't seem to have bothere stocking any ethical eggs, at least not in my area.

There are no specialty shops up our way that stock ultra-good treats either but fortunately I work near several that do.

If you are willing to go the extra mile this Easter then these establishments can sell you the good stuff:

Barker and Hale Cottesloe

Barker and Hale Floreat Forum

Chokoby Road

My personal recommendation is to go to either of the Barker and Hale stores as they will know for certain which chocolate is worth buying.

Products under the label Cocoa Farm are also acceptable as the cocoa is carefully sourced - and in the future will be Australian Grown.

Chocolatier – another Australian company have produced fair trade eggs for some time and these are available in light and dark chocolate.

Vivani is a German range - not 'Fair Trade' in the official sense but certainly 'fairly traded' cocoa. Tracy of Barker and Hale also advises that any organic cocoa is likely to be more fairly traded due to the conditions that are attached to the organic certification process.

All of the above products are available for Barker and Hale but they have had trouble sourcing a good supply of ethical chocolate this year so stocks are limited.

I think for next year I will send queries to all the local chocolate makers asking whether or not their cocoa is fair trade - this would hopefully prompt action on their part.

Have a great Easter - enjoy the chocolate and the break. I've just finished an assignment and hopefully will have a little more time to think, and write about coffee this week.

Friday Night Music

This one is a favourite with the Junior Grendels:

Nescafe 'Red'

Following on from their “Nescafe Greenblend’, Nescafe are about to launch a new product – ‘Nescafe Red’

Nescafe Greenblend is the kind of thing I might have thought a joke, but it was all too horribly real – green coffee beans pulped and liquefied then mixed with brewed roasted coffee to deliver a product ‘high in antioxidants’.

I can understand the need to Nescafe to add a little more life to their product, but Nescafe Greenblend was a little sad and undoubtedly misled many consumers into thinking they were buying an ecologically sustainable product.

Of course using various other parts of the coffee plant is not new.

Qishr is a drink made from the lightly toasted husks of the coffee cherry. Usually served as a sweet tea it is common on the Arabian peninsula. Hard to get in Australia, it is none-the-less a traditional way to make use of parts of the coffee plant that would otherwise be disposed of.

In the past, the pulp of the coffee cherry has also been used to make a coffee wine and this too has been a traditional use – and one I would like to try.

Now Nescafe are using the pulp of ripened cherries to add a little more kick to their coffee based drinks by fermenting it, then brewing the result with roasted beans to deliver what they are calling ‘Nescafe Red’.

Apparently the flavour (and I am not speaking from personal experience here) is something that you might expect if you had taken a day-old roast of monsooned robusta beans, ground them and then filtered the brew with Ern Malley’s unwashed socks.

I’m not going to link to their website – but here is the product launch page that will give me ongoing nightmares: