The variety of bread now available even from franchise stores such as Brumbies is amazing - from light crusty breads through to rich dark rye and sourdoughs.
I love bread - the smell the feel and the texture. There is something earthy and elemental about it and wherever I have travelled I have enjoyed the local bread as a reliable, cheap and filling food.
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Armenia was also the place in which I learned to love coffee and yet I cannot once recall seeing it in the markets - I remember what I did see, the fruit, the eggs, the enormous mounds of cabbages and potatoes, the bread and the few vendors with dried sausages - at exorbitant prices. The great thing about the sausages though was that they could be shaved very thinly and used to flavour soups or thinly layered in lavash with the local cheese that was in the form of a long dried stringy rope – and very tasty.
Fruit was expensive – up to 1200 Roubles a kilo at one point. It was all brought in small loads across the border from Georgia – you’d call it smuggling except that it was carried fairly openly which was not a problem as long as you had the correct bribe for the border guards.
I have no idea where they got their coffee from!
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A 'Snow Grendel' testing his barefoot-in-the-snow endurance (a wussy 32.3 seconds I think)